NAVARRA GOURMET

The radical nature of taste

Pedro Subijana “Akelarre”, in San Sebastián

“I cannot imagine a vegetable-free cuisine”

During the congress, Pedro Subijana, the renowned chef from San Sebastian, declared that it was impossible for him to imagine "a vegetable-free cuisine", and neither could he understand "those who boast of never eating greens". The owner of the Akelarre restaurant explained that he has always created dishes around vegetables and that in his pioneering tasting menus, vegetables are consistently present.

Subijana took advantage of the occasion to defend the task of the vegetable producers and the need to contact "artisans, who are the ones to perform their tasks with love and care". "We need people in the fields who have the same outlook as us. People who can sell their produce at a fair price, which will allow them to carry on producing. For this, we need to reach agreements with the producers", Subijana affirmed, before going on to explain that the only way for the farmers to maintain a livelihood is by "purchasing their products at their prices".

The chef demonstrated how to make a "False vegetable risotto with griddled yoke", a "vegetable ravioli" and a picturesque dish called "Leaves, vegetables and paints", in addition to other demonstration dishes. "One of my obsessions is to enhance the flavour of vegetables", he explained, before stating that "we need to add everything that is pleasant to the taste, the rest is worthless". Pedro Subijana recommended taking great care when seasoning, as this can easily spoil a good recipe. "If a dish has no really exceptional taste, it doesn't matter how many ingredients it has, it still won't mean anything to me. Taste is the most important culinary factor", he concluded.

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